New Wave Rioja
Details
Rioja is boring. I hear that all the time. It's known mainly for powerful reds with emphasis on aging in oak barrels, with varying degrees of quality and price. Even fans of famous Rioja estates would be hard-pressed to name a single village in the region, since everything is sold under the generic Rioja brand, distinguished only by those cosecha, crianza, reserva and gran reserva stickers.
Thankfully, changes are afoot, even if they are slow. In this event, we will taste wines that highlight some recent developments in this 600 winery, 400 million bottle region that is so familiar, yet at the same time, unfamiliar.
We will de dining at Akdeniz, a favorite Turkish restaurant in Midtown West. Here is a link to the menu
Just a reminder of our usual rules:
** The cost of this event is $37 and is for the wines and corkage. You will also have to pay the cost of your food (plus 33% for tax and tip). Please order at least two courses (i.e. a main dish and appetizer ). There are very few restaurants that allow us to bring our own wine for a low corkage.
Cancellation policy - If you take spot, then cancel, and no one else takes the spot, you will not receive a refund or credit. No refunds or credits will be given for no-shows or late cancellations (unless someone else takes your spot). All cancellations are subject to a $10 service fee.
Please use public transportation - NO DRINKING AND DRIVING!
The Wines (see accompanying photos)
2018 Bodegas Honorio Rubio "Lias Finas" Crianza (Viura)
Trend - Renaissance of white wines. In recent years, winemakers have employed better viticulture and different fermentation and aging techniques, among others, to produce world-class bottlings.
Notes of ripe apple and crisp, refreshing lemon zest combine with decidedly earthy notes of smoke, hay and mushroom in this delightfully complex bottle of wine. This cuvée spends a total of 16 months aging on its lees, and 10 months in barrel. 2934 bottles. TA 93, RP 92
2019 Gil Berzal Pequenas Parcelas Tinto (Tempranillo)
Trend - The word "Laguardia" on the label, indicating the village. A big step in showcasing terroir. Labels are now allowed to display the region, village or vineyard names. What took so long?
5th gen brothers Saúl and Benjamín Gil-Berzal carve out wines from high elevation vineyards in Laguardia. Fermented in concrete vessels, aged in French oak for 15 months. Evolution in the glass, great structure with coiled tannins, mighty fine drinking.
2021 Bodegas Ojuel Salvaje 1 (Garnacha)
The next three wines are from Bodegas Ojuel, run by Miguel Martinez (2018 Young Winemaker of the Year - Tim Atkin).
Trend - Embrace of wine varieties other than tempranillo. Garnacha used to be the top dog, now it's appearing more often in single varietal bottlings.
Old vine Garnacha is grown at 500m elevation on poor soils south of the village of Sojuela. This evocative red has lots of sweet fruit and floral notes (violets) over a herbal and forest background - the earthy finish does not hide its charming character. 574 bottles. 17/20 (Spanish Wine Lover)
2021 Bodegas Ojuel Salvaje 2 (Maturana Tinta)
Trend - Focus on lesser planted grapes like graciano and maturana, which are more widely used as blending grapes.
Organic with no additives, this is from old Maturana vines and other varieties located 650 meters above sea level, on Cerro Sojón. It is rare to enjoy a wine of these characteristics, pure and wild, full of harmony and seduction. This displays notes of Cabernet Franc, very Chinonesque. 800 bottles.
BONUS!!
2021 Bodegas Ojuel Supurao Naturalmente Dulce 375ml
Yes, traditional dessert wine from Rioja! Who knew?
Supurao is made from dehydrated grapes, and this winery is the only one making it! Read this in-depth article "Ojuel recovers supurao" .
More trivia - Supurao was also made when a baby girl was born —tradition dictated that the wine had to be cellared until the day of her wedding. This is a work of historical recovery that, in addition, is a delight on the palate.
"Sweet wine reminiscent of eating prunes. Lots of sweetness, marked quince and aromas of nuts. Fabulous sweet wine and a lot of fun, the acidity supports it very well. It will age fabulously." 17.5/20 (Jancis Robinson). 1900 bottles
Supurao is not fortified, not heavy, it is only 12% alcohol. As a holiday treat, I will order assorted desserts for the group to share. Gratis!
New Wave Rioja